Dauvissat, Vincent: Chablis, Les Vaillons, 1er Cru750ML 2013 BIN# CLVSVDV13
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Nicholas Jackson:In 2017, it’s hard to conceive of a more mineral wine. If you like generous fruit in your Chablis, look elsewhere. This is just a deposit of oyster shell, saline minerality - absolutely savoury and dry, but it seems to go to the very heart of what Chablis is all about. In a way, where 2013 lacks the generosity of its neighboring vintages on either side, this is the best way to make a virtue of a necessity: forget about making a generously flavored wine and simply allow the mineral heart of Chablis to articulate itself. And if you accept that interpretation of the vintage, this is particularly successful and good value.